Tropical Freshwater Aquarium Fish
A range of six tropical freshwater aquarium fish you could add to your aquarium are presented here with colors and scientific names, best conditions, sex differences and breeding comment.
Croaking Gourami – Trichopsis vittatus (Family: Belontiidae)
Grows to about 6.5 cm and make their ‘noise’ during the breeding period at night. There is a smaller species at 3.5 cm; the Trichopsis pumilus (dwarf croaking gourami). Both are active fish, peaceful and need a higher temperature of 28ºC.
The Trichopsis vittatus is yellowish-green to a brownish coloration on the back blending into a bluish-white on the flanks and almost white on the belly. The sides also have lengthwise darker color bands and the fishes eyes are blue. The male has longer anal and dorsal fins. Not easy to get these fish to spawn.
Diamond Tetra – Moenkhausia pittieri (Family: Characidae)
Is at its best in a large tank at 21-24ºC, heavily planted in one area for hiding places. May grow to 7.5 cm and is a fast and agile mover. The fish has a bright red eye with a silvery gray or blue body. Males have more pointed and longer pelvic, anal and dorsal fins. This fish does not breed well in captivity.
The breeding tank will have a gravel bottom and fine leaved plants fixed along the bottom. Put the couple in overnight and note that the male can be very aggressive to the female pushing her over the plants where eggs are laid and fertilized straight away. Remove fish after spawning. Eggs hatch in two days and can swim a day or so later. Feed on infusoria or dried food.
Colisa lalia (Neon Dwarf gourami)- Image via Wikipedia
Dwarf Gourami – Colisa lalia (Family: Belontiidae)
Grows to about 6 cm, is hardy but shy and requires a tank with lots of algae for browsing, must be well planted and have a temperature of about 26ºC.
The fish body has blue and red bands. Anal and dorsal fins are blue with red dots and the pelvic fins are orange.
Compared to the female the male has a pointed dorsal fin and is usually stronger colored. These fish are bubble-nest builders and the male may behave aggressively.
Remove the female after spawning and then the male after the fry start swimming.
Kribensis – Pelvicachromis pulcher (Family: Cichlidae)
This is the most popular of several related species with the female growing to about 9 cm with the male about 2cm shorter. Happy at normal tropical tank temperatures in a large tank with heavily planted areas for hiding places. For a community tank use a compatible pair as a shoal tends to have some ‘in-fighting’.
Color wise the back is a brown shade and the flanks are purple to blue, often with a purple spot. The male has a caudal fin with yellow edged dark spots. Breed at 27ºC using an upturned plant pot (with access through the side – break a bit off) in a tank with a sandy bottom and plants. Often eggs will be laid inside the pot. Remove the male as the female may become aggressive towards him.
Firemouth – Thorichthys meeki (Family: Cichlidae)
The firemouths are breeding!- Image by Krista76 via Flickr
Possibly the most popular of several Chichlasoma species (as it used to be classified) as the Chichlasoma biocellatum (aka Jack Dempsey) and Chichlasoma severum are too aggressive for the community tank.
Having said that it is an argumentative fish unless it is part of a compatible pair and can grow to about 10 cm so it is not ideal for a community tank.
The most obvious coloring is the brilliant red on the belly up to the mouth. Body is bluish-green with pale purple markings plus a broken dark line from tail to gill plate. It prefers to spawn on a piece of slate, similar to the checkered dwarf cichlid.
Flying Barb – Esomus danrica (Family: Cyprinidae)
As its name suggests you must have a cover on the tank to prevent it jumping put. It must also have a certain amount of live food in its diet along with a water temperature of 22-24ºC and heavily planted tank.
It will eat at the top of the aquarium and will grow to about 9 cm. Under artificial light the body has a violet hue but in normal light the fish is olive green to light brown on its back, changing to a silvery gray/silver on the flanks and belly.
And there is a horizontal line along the body. The female is rounder and larger than the male. 26ºC is ideal for spawning in a tank with both submerged and floating plants. The eggs will be hatched on the floating plants and will fall to the bottom of the aquarium. The eggs may be eaten so remove the fish and consider using a breeding trap.
Tropical Freshwater Aquarium
This article provides an overview of a tropical freshwater aquarium: how to set it up, establish plants, feed your fish and maintain the tank.
Mid 19th Century glass freshwater aquarium, co...- Image via Wikipedia
The Aquarium
Aquarists should understand that their main aim is to keep a highly artificial and confined group of animals and plants in an environment that can change dramatically and quickly with tragic consequences for some or all of the occupants. Yet this can be achieved if a few basic facts are recognized and then applied to counteract any problems that might arise.
Location
The first important consideration is tank location. It should receive some daylight, but is not essential, and it may be maintained perfectly with artificial illumination alone.
Drafty places must be avoided, and so must the tops of radiators, which heat the sand and cause plants to wilt and can overheat a tank too easily. Therefore, the popular window location over a radiator is not recommended.
Substrate
Image via Wikipedia
Aquarium gravel with a variable grain size, is the best.
It should be deep enough to provide adequate root space for the plants provided, which will vary from 1 to 3 inches.
In all but the smallest tanks, 2 inches of depth at the back and less in front is about right.
Fill the tank carefully with water free of chlorine.
Heating
Tropical fish need heated water, usually at a temperature of between 21ºC (69ºF) and 23ºC (73ºF). A heater and pre-set thermostat are put in place and switched on.
Small Aquarium with Paracheirodon innesi (neon...- Image via Wikipedia
Stones, rocks and ornaments
These items are almost purely a matter of personal taste but some fish do appreciate places to hide.
Remember to sterilize with hot water before using these items.
Pots put on their side are often great places for fish to hide.
Use your imagination and you can have a great looking tank like the one in the photo on the right.
Planting
A small amateur aquarium – tank for 100 liters.- Image via Wikipedia
Make a diagram of the desired scheme before starting. The higher-growing and larger plants look best at the back and sides (Cabomba, Myriophyllum, and Anacharis).
In front, some of the smaller grasses or dwarf varieties of other plants may be used, but it is customary to leave a free swimming space in the center front.
Plants serve many purposes. They absorb carbon dioxide (from the fish) and give off oxygen into the water.
They also mop up as nutrients the nitrates produced from fish excreta and can hide heater cables in the tank.
Cover/canopy/hood
A cover for your tank is essential as it stops active fish from escaping, prevents moisture loss from evaporation and acts as a housing for the artificial lighting.
Fish
Before introducing any fish you’ll want to decide if you are having a community tank (several different species of fish) or a specialist aquarium featuring only one species. Find out about potential incompatibilities between the various species you are planning to put together.
You’ll also need to estimate how many fish you can accommodate in your aquarium. Measure the surface area of your tank (length x width) and divide by 12. This gives you the number of slender fish 1 inch long (e.g. tetras) your tank will comfortably accommodate.
For fuller bodied fish like goldfish, divide the surface area by 20. Of course you can use half the number of fish 2 inches long and a quarter the number of 4 inch fish etc. And the length should be that of the fully grown fish, not the young fish you are probably putting in your aquarium.
Diet
Whatever you do, don’t overfeed. This causes food to rot, water quality to deteriorate and the fish to suffer.
types of prepared fish food Wikipedia
A couple of times a day should suffice with enough food to be eaten within 3 or 4 minutes.
Dried foods can be powder or flake with variable amounts of animal/vegetable matter and biscuit meal.
Tablets are also available and can be nibbled on by the fish.
Live foods include tubifex worms, daphnia, brine shrimp, earthworm and infusoria.
A varied diet is advisable so both dried and live foods should be given to varying degrees depending on your fishes specific requirements.
Maintenance
This is absolutely essential to ensure the continued presence of healthy fish. Regular tank cleaning, monitoring of water quality, thinning of plants when necessary etc etc. Set yourself a schedule and keep to it. You will reap the benefits and enjoy the beauty of your aquarium and lovely fish for many years to come.
Freshwater Invertebrates Aquarium
Keeping freshwater invertebrates in aquarium conditions. This article gives an overview of how to look after them and the choice available.
Freshwater invertebrates in an aquarium are the life forms that do not have an internal skeleton and commonly include shrimp and snails.
There are many shrimp species so here are a few popular ones;
Amano shrimp – Caridina multidentata.
Caridina multidentata Wikipedia
Often said that it started the dwarf shrimp hobby in the United States .
Most are very good algae eaters and usually about 1-2 inches in length.
They are peaceful and best kept in groups but will be eaten by larger fish.
Live for 2-3 years. Temperature 70-80ºF, ph 6.5 – 8.0. Not easy to breed.
Red Cherry Shrimp Wikipedia
Red Cherry Shrimp – Neocaridina heteropoda
Will be ok with other dwarf shrimp that are also non-aggressive.
Will eat algae and also fish food and soft vegetables.
Live for 1-2 years and are very active and only hide after shedding their exoskeleton.
Temperature 65 -85ºF, ph 6.5 – 8.0.
Will breed if conditions are good.
The female is much larger and more colorful.
Tiger Shrimp – Caridina sp.
Are natural algae eaters and prefer slightly acidic conditions.
Caridina cf. cantonensis red tiger is a transp...- Image via Wikipedia
Three color variations are available. Live for 1-2 years and are quite active.
Temperature 68 -75ºF, ph 6.0 – 7.25.
Can be kept with most other dwarf shrimp.
If conditions are good breeding will take place.
The female has a bit larger and wider tail section.
Bee Shrimp – Caridina cf. cantonenis
Many color varieties are available including a white one.
Caridina cf. cantonensis crystal red Wikipedia
They require slightly different requirements compared to the others above; softer water, lower temperature and more acidic conditions.
Live for 1-2 years, are non-aggressive and quite active.
Temperature 65 -72ºF, ph 5.8 – 6.80. Are algae eaters by nature but can also be fed food for bottom feeders.
Fairly easy to breed but not easy to tell the differences between the sexes.
The four shrimp species mentioned above are all compatible with each other.
Snails
Apple snails are the largest freshwater snails and some species can reach up to 6 inches wide (Pomacea maculata) which would not be suitable for your aquarium.
Pomacea bridgesii Wikipedia
The most common one sold is the Pomacea bridgesii and is a good choice but it very important that this IS the species that you have bought as other snails can be voracious eaters of your plants and can quickly ruin your aquarium.
The Pomacea bridgesii can be fed on fish food and be given some vegetables as well. One main characteristic of the apple snail is the tube like organ used to breathe whilst submerged. It must be able to do this or will drown. Another typical feature are the labial tentacles positioned on both sides of the mouth.
If your snail lays its eggs above the water then it is an Apple Snail. Another common snail is the Marisa cornuarietis (Columbian ramshorn), which is smaller than the others mentioned above and have dark brown and yellow stripes.
Snails don’t always mix well with fish so be warned. Certain barbs and tetras can pick on snails and injure them fatally. And dead snails can pollute an aquarium very quickly. Tropical water conditions are preferred to cold water.
As with all invertebrates it is important not to let copper get into the system. This can happen if certain medications are used.
Fresh Water Aquarium Fish
A variety of eight fresh water aquarium fish you can put in your aquarium. Scientific names, preferred conditions, colors description, sex differences and breeding advice are given.
American Flag Fish – Jordanella floridae (Family: Cyprinodontidae)
Aggressive but a pair may be ok in a community tank if the others are of a similar size. Prefers 20 to 22ºC. Blue to yellowish-green with an iridescent sheen. Female is paler in color with a dark spot on the dorsal fin. Breed in a thickly planted tank.
Male normally forms depression in gravel and female puts eggs in this area. Remove female immediately after spawning.Rear fry on algae and freshly hatched brine shrimp.
Argentine Pearl – Cynolebias belloti (Family: Cyprinodontidae)
Best in a small shoal if it is a community tank and 21 to 26ºC. Adult can grow to about 7.5 cm. Its body color is generally a dark shade of green with light blue or pearly white spots scattered over the body and vertical fins.
The eye has a dark stripe passing through it. Females are smaller and yellowish green with irregular dark brown vertical stripes – quite dissimilar. Not easy to breed and even if they do hatch the fry may not reach maturity.
Beacon Fish – Hemigarammus ocellifer (Family: Characidae)
Popular community fish as it is peaceful and hardy. Best in water between 20 and 26ºC. Incorporate a high percentage of live food in its meals. Light greenish brown body color with yellow and red iris. Male is slimmer and smaller than the female.
Fairly easy to breed but use two males per female with water at 25ºC and 25 cm deep for the breeding tank. Eggs will stick to fine leaved plants in the tank. Remove fish after spawning. Fry hatch after about three days.
Bloodfin – Aphyocharax anisitsi(Family: Characidae)
Good for community tank as they are peaceful and only grow to about 5.5 cm. 25ºC temperature, a small shoal and well lit tank are best conditions. Silvery green color with red fins (apart from pectorals). Female color is less dark and no white tip on ventral and anal fins.
Breed in large tank with 15cm water at 24ºC and well planted with both tall and short plants. Spawning taks place in the early hours as both fish meet above the water surface and the non-stick clear eggs are scattered over a wide area. Remove adults after spawning.
Bumble Bee Fish – Brachygobius nunus (Family:Gobiidae)
Not a very active fish as it keeps still on a rock or plant for more than an hour at a time. Maximum size of 4.5 cm. Needs lots of hiding places and a teaspoonful of salt in the tank is preferred. Golden yellow body color and four dark bands. Breeding is not easy.
Checkered Dwarf Cichlid – Apistogramma ramirezi (Family: Cichlidae)
Grows to 6 cm and prefers a tank with plenty of hiding places. Not a very long-lived species. Purplish-red is the body coloring with iridescent green or turquoise spots. Will look different as the light changes. Not east to tell a male from a female.
For breeding, densely plant one end of the tank and have a sandy bottom with pieces of slate on it. Adhesive eggs will be laid on the slate and remove the slate to another tank once laid. Eggs will hatch in three days at 26ºC.
Clown Barb – Barbus everetti (Family: Cyprinidae)
A larger fish (growing to 13 cm) and good for a community tank at a temperature of 22ºC. Yellowish-pink body color with blue or gray patches. Female is larger and thicker than the male and has pink fins, compared to red in the male. Difficult species to breed. Closely related species which are smaller in size include Barbus titteya (Cherry Barb), Barbus nigrofasciatus (black ruby), Barbus conchonius (rosy barb) and Barbus sachsi (golden barb).
Combtail Paradise Fish – Belontia signata (Family: Belontiidae)
Due to its aggressiveness not suitable for a community tank. Needs plenty of hiding places and a temperature of 2ºC above the normal tropical range. A larger fish growing to 12.5 cm. Male colors vary from greenish-brown to deepish red on the back , gradually changing to a greenish blue on the belly. Females are smaller and the color is more yellowish-brown overall.
Breeding tank should be at 29ºC and adults kept apart beforehand and fed on live food. The tank should be heavily planted plus have floating plants where the eggs will be laid. Feed fry on infusoria after two days when they have eaten their yolk-sacs.
Freshwater Planted Aquarium
-
A small amateur aquarium – tank for 100 liters.
- Image via Wikipedia
Here we cover how a freshwater planted aquarium uses these different types of plants, how to plan your layout and ways of planting them in your freshwater aquarium.
Generally speaking, a freshwater planted aquarium will use three types of plants; proper aquatic plants, marginals and terrestrial.
And similar to your fishes they also have preferences for different water conditions so you need to discover this information before you start putting them into your aquarium.
Proper Aquatic Plants
These type of plants are commonly sold as cuttings and are true aquatic plants as they spend all their time under water and must remain so. Example: Cabomba caroliniana from the Cabomba genus commonly known as the Green Cabomba.
Amazon Sword Wikipedia
Marginal Plants
Most of the aquarium plants come under this category. As the name suggests, in their natural surroundings, they are only submerged for part of the year.
And during the dry season grow out of the water with most of then flowering and seeding at that time.
Examples:
Cryptocoryne and Echinodorus genus. There are 50-60 species within the Cryptocorynes genus and amongst the Echinodorus genus is the very popular Amazon Sword species. (Echinodorus amazonicus).
Terrestrial Plants
These plants are not totally suitable for freshwater aquariums and total submersion for prolonged periods as they will then rot and lead to poor water quality. Avoid these as they can sometimes be offered as ‘aquatic plants’.
Planning Your Plants
Before buying any plants you need to decide how your aquarium is going to look and need to sketch out what is going to go where. And whether you are looking for coldwater or warm water (tropical) plants.
Look at the colors available, types of leaves and the sizes they will grow to. On your sketch position the smaller varieties at the front with taller/larger plants further back. You may not be able to buy all your plants at once but as you have your sketch you can fill in the gaps over a period of time.
You need to develop your plant set up as carefully as you would for your fish. Dead leaves are just as bad for the water quality as fish waste is.
Buying Your Plants
Don’t forget that some plants, just like the fish, may prefer warmer conditions so tropical plants won’t be happy in cold water. Obvious but worth mentioning. And when you are buying these particular plants from the store check that the tanks they rare kept in are warm (feel the glass) or put your fingers in the water if they are kept in trays. If its cold, don’t buy these tropical plants.
Plants may be sold as cuttings (no roots but a length of stem, leaves and a growing tip) or as individual rooted plants. You can transport them home safely as long as they are damp and warm, so they don’t need to be submerged.
Cryptocoryne species Wikipedia
Planting
Once you’ve got your plants home lay them out in water trays (warm if necessary).
And if you need to trim any cuttings then use a sharp pair of scissors as bruising can lead to plant disease.
We are assuming here that you have your substrate in place.
Coarse sand or a fine gravel are ideal as you’ll need water movement and the ability for roots to establish themselves in the substrate.
240 litres aquarium with different fishes, pla...- Image via Wikipedia
Locate the plants with a separation distance of the leaves width. This allows sufficient light to reach the substrate. And don’t plant in bunches.
Follow your sketch plan and aim for the strategy of increasing plant height as you go further back in the aquarium.
Other plants don’t need to be planted but float. For example Azolla caroliniana (Family … Asteraceae) is a smaller floating fern that has leaves with blue-green algae in them. If you have enough light and nutrition there is a floating fern called Salvinia natans that will grow rapidly. A lack of micronutrients shows up as light colored leaves.
Varieties of this fern are resistant to water due to the fine hairs on them. And algae is reduced by the shading it makes and the mopping up of nutrients from the water.
Other plants will need to be fixed to rocks or wood till they establish themselves, e.g. Microsorium pteropus, also known as Java Fern. And Vesicularia dubayana (Java Moss) can be left free to find its own attachment. But beware, once established it grows rapidly and will need frequent cutting back.
So plan your aquarium plant layout carefully, take time choosing the plants and the time spent will reap rewards for years to come.
